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Diamond Education

Diamond Size

A diamond’s weight is measured in what is known as a ‘carat’, which is a small unit of measurement equal to 200 milligrams. Carat is not a measure of a diamond’s size, but rather a measure of a diamond’s weight. One carat can also be divided in 100 points. A .75 carat diamond is the same as 75 points or 3/4 carat diamond. Because larger diamonds are found less frequently in nature, they are more valuable. Therefore, a 1 carat diamond will cost more than twice a 1/2 carat diamond, assuming other characteristics are similar. The most important thing to remember when it comes to a diamond’s carat weight is that it is not the only factor that determines a diamond’s value. The diagram below shows the size of various carat weights of a diamond in relation to each other.

diamond-sizes

Diamond Clarity

Refers to the presence of inclusions in a diamond. Inclusions are natural identifying characteristics such as minerals or fractures, that appear while diamonds are being formed. They may look like tiny crystals, clouds or feathers. Inclusions are usually viewed at 10x magnification. The position of inclusions can greatly affect the value of a diamond. Some inclusions can be hidden by a mounting, thus having little effect on the beauty of a diamond. An inclusion in the middle or top of a diamond could impact the dispersion of light, making the diamond less brilliant. Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection known as the clarity scale. The scale ranges from F (Flawless) to I (Included) and is based on the visibility of inclusions at 10X magnification.

diamond-clarity-chart

Diamond Color

Refers to the degree to which a diamond is colorless. The farther from colorless that a diamond’s grade is, the less rare and therefore less valuable it is. Diamonds are graded on a color scale established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which ranges from D (Colorless) to Z. Icy winter whites (D-I) look stunning in white gold or platinum. Warmer colored diamonds (J-Z) are more desirable when set in yellow gold. Color differences can be very subtle and grading is done under controlled lighting and compared against a ‘master’ for accuracy. This color chart is representative of the color grades of a diamond.

diamond-color

Diamond Cut

Refers to the angles and proportions of a diamond. The cut of a diamond refers to the exact proportions, quality of polish and the arrangement of a diamond’s facets. While nature determines a diamond’s clarity, carat weight and color, the hand of a master craftsman is necessary to release the diamonds’ fire and sparkle.

A diamond has facets that allow light to enter it, become refracted, and exit in a rainbow of colors. As illustrated below, when a diamond is cut to ideal proportions, is carefully polished and has exact symmetry, light will then reflect from one facet to another and disperse through the top of the stone, resulting in a display of brilliance and fire. Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow,

lose or leak light through the side or bottom, resulting in less brilliance, fire, scintillation and value. The cut can affect the value of a diamond by up to 35%!

diamond-cut-1diamond-cut-2

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Jewelry References

  • Jewelry Information Center (JIC) Jewelry Information Center (JIC) is the public relations arm of the fine jewelry and watch industries. Founded as a non-profit trade association in 1946 in New York City, JIC is funded by its members (nearly 1,000 manufacturers, designers, and retailers o Jewelry Information Center (JIC) is the public relations arm of the fine jewelry and watch industries. Founded as a non-profit trade association in 1946 in New York City, JIC is funded by its members (nearly 1,000 manufacturers, designers, and retailers o
  • Fashion Conversations
  • AGS Laboratories AGS Laboratories is the world’s premier diamond grading laboratory for diamond cut, the first diamond laboratory to offer a diamond cut grade based on proven science and the first laboratory to offer cut grading for fancy shapes including princess, emeral AGS Laboratories is the world’s premier diamond grading laboratory for diamond cut, the first diamond laboratory to offer a diamond cut grade based on proven science and the first laboratory to offer cut grading for fancy shapes including princess, emeral
  • Cultured Pearl Association of America The Cultured Pearl Association of America, Inc is a non profit group founded in 1957, comprised of the finest manufacturers, wholesalers, dealers and suppliers of Cultured Pearls in the United States.  Our intention is to “cultivate” awareness, interest, The Cultured Pearl Association of America, Inc is a non profit group founded in 1957, comprised of the finest manufacturers, wholesalers, dealers and suppliers of Cultured Pearls in the United States. Our intention is to “cultivate” awareness, interest,
  • American Gem Labs (AGL) American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) is an international gemstone testing facility specializing in comprehensive colored gemstone analysis. AGL provides identification reports, detailed enhancement reports, country-of-origin or provenance reports, as w American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) is an international gemstone testing facility specializing in comprehensive colored gemstone analysis. AGL provides identification reports, detailed enhancement reports, country-of-origin or provenance reports, as w
  • The World Jewellery Confederation CIBJO is an international confederation of national jewelery trade organizations. CIBJO’s purpose is to encourage harmonization, promote international cooperation in the jewelery industry, and to consider issues which concern the trade worldwide. CIBJO is an international confederation of national jewelery trade organizations. CIBJO’s purpose is to encourage harmonization, promote international cooperation in the jewelery industry, and to consider issues which concern the trade worldwide.
  • AGTA Gem Industry Guide The AGTA is recognized within the jewelry trade as the authoritative source on natural colored gemstones: “The voice of the natural colored gemstone, pearl and cultured pearl industries.” The AGTA is recognized within the jewelry trade as the authoritative source on natural colored gemstones: “The voice of the natural colored gemstone, pearl and cultured pearl industries.”
  • Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Established in 1931, GIA is the world’s largest and most respected nonprofit institute of gemological research and learning.  GIA discovers (through GIA Research), imparts (through GIA Education), and applies (through the GIA Laboratory and GIA Instrument Established in 1931, GIA is the world’s largest and most respected nonprofit institute of gemological research and learning. GIA discovers (through GIA Research), imparts (through GIA Education), and applies (through the GIA Laboratory and GIA Instrument
  • Platinum Guild International The Platinum Guild International is the official website for platinum jewelry; offering advice and information, design inspiration, and where to find a recommended platinum retailer in your area. The site is brought to you by Platinum Guild International, The Platinum Guild International is the official website for platinum jewelry; offering advice and information, design inspiration, and where to find a recommended platinum retailer in your area. The site is brought to you by Platinum Guild International,
  • The Silver Institute The Silver Institute is a nonprofit international association that draws its membership from across the breadth of the silver industry. This includes leading silver mining houses, refiners, bullion suppliers, manufacturers of silver products and wholesale The Silver Institute is a nonprofit international association that draws its membership from across the breadth of the silver industry. This includes leading silver mining houses, refiners, bullion suppliers, manufacturers of silver products and wholesale
  • World Gold Council Founded in 1987, the World Gold Council is an organization formed and funded by the world’s leading gold mining companies with the aim of stimulating and maximising the demand for, and holding of Gold. Founded in 1987, the World Gold Council is an organization formed and funded by the world’s leading gold mining companies with the aim of stimulating and maximising the demand for, and holding of Gold.

Jewelry Titans

  • Tiffany & Company The year was 1837. Charles Lewis Tiffany and his schoolmate John Young traveled from New England to New York City with an idea and a dream that were to become Tiffany & Co. While the first day of business brought a mere four dollars and 98 cents, the The year was 1837. Charles Lewis Tiffany and his schoolmate John Young traveled from New England to New York City with an idea and a dream that were to become Tiffany & Co. While the first day of business brought a mere four dollars and 98 cents, the
  • Harry Winston Harry Winston always possessed a gift; he had an eye for the best gemstones and a nose for what the customer wanted. Winston is still known for exquisite jewelry. His name is still linked to some of the most beautiful jewels and settings in the world. Harry Winston always possessed a gift; he had an eye for the best gemstones and a nose for what the customer wanted. Winston is still known for exquisite jewelry. His name is still linked to some of the most beautiful jewels and settings in the world.
  • Cartier Louis Francois Cartier the son of a powder horn maker, founded Cartier in 1847; the year his workshop master Adolphe Picard died. Cartier would take over Maitre Picard’s Jewelry shop located at 31 Rue Montorgueil, Paris. Louis Francois Cartier the son of a powder horn maker, founded Cartier in 1847; the year his workshop master Adolphe Picard died. Cartier would take over Maitre Picard’s Jewelry shop located at 31 Rue Montorgueil, Paris.
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  • GIA hosts career fair, Melo pearl lecture
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  • SPS to intro 'Silvermark Manufacturer' program
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  • De Beers CEO Penny to exit company
    De Beers Chief Executive Officer Gareth Penny will step down this fall after five years at the helm of the world's largest diamond mining company, a tenure that included guiding De Beers through one of the worst financial crises in history.  […]
  • Judge rules Cohen need not buy Carlyle and Co.
    A federal bankruptcy court judge has ruled that Russell Cohen, a member of the family that founded the Carlyle and Co. retail chain, is off the hook when it comes to buying back his family's former business. […]

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