VAIL, Colorado — There are thousands of minerals lying on the surface of the earth and buried within its depths. Yet of these thousands, only about 90 are considered worthy of the name “gemstone.” What are the qualities that make us willing to give several months’ salary in order to own one?
Two very basic characteristics would be beauty and wearability. In considering the beauty of a stone, we look at color, clarity and the manner in which light plays on its surface or within its facets — a quality referred to as brilliance. Some stones are more likely to bend light and break it up into its spectral colors, two variables known as refraction and dispersion.
There is a continuum of each of these characteristics, and the higher a stone rates in these areas, the greater its rarity, and the higher its value. Let us consider a hypothetical pair of rubies: one is a rather pale or pinkish color; specks of matter or “inclusions” are easily visible within. Examining it under direct light, it seems somewhat lifeless.
Our second stone is a rich scarlet. Despite its depth of rich color, we can clearly see into the gem. No spots mar its interior and light sparkles and dances within its facets. Obviously, this second stone is far more valuable, even though the first may be several times larger. In evaluating our gemstones, then, quality has counted above quantity.
Just because a stone is beautiful, does not mean it is strong enough to be wearable.
The second factor, wearability, is mainly determined by hardness. A mineralogist named F. Mohs calculated a method of determining a stone hardness, devising a relative scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the diamond, the hardest of all gems.
It is interesting to note that this is a logarithmic progression, not equal steps: 10 (diamond) is greater than all the steps from 1 to 9. Generally any stone with a hardness of less than 5 on the Mohs scale is easily scratched and dulled. Turquoise and lapis, which range from 5 to 6, scuff to some degree, but can be polished and are reasonably durable.
Quartz, which includes amethyst and citrine, wear quite satisfactorily at a hardness of 7, and beryl, which includes emerald and aquamarine, and ranks 7 to 8, fares better still with daily wear.
Keeping these qualities in mind, one need not be a gemologist to make a sensible gemstone purchase. Know what you wish to spend, be willing to ask your gem dealer about the wearability factor, and take time to examine the stone for color and clarity. You too can choose a stone for which will be a joy to wear and admire.
Dan Telleen is the owner of Karats, located at 122 E. Meadow Drive in Vail Village. He’s been designing jewelry in Vail since 1970. Call 970-476-4760 for more information.
via Vail Jeweler’s Secrets: Evaluating a gemstones’ worth | VailDaily.com.
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